Kii Nagashima to Shima

With winter approaching and the higher mountains seeing the first snowfall of the season late autumn to early spring is a good time to head towards the Pacific Ocean coast to enjoy a change of scenery. Coastal villages, quiet fishing ports, shorter but punchy climbs, fresh seafood and majestic ocean views are abundant throughout the Japanese coastal areas and the Kii Peninsula (紀伊半島) – only a couple of hours train ride away from both Nagoya (名古屋) and Osaka (大阪) – provides all of the above.

The route from Kii Nagashima in Mie prefecture (三重県) to Shima (志摩市), host to the 2016 G7 Summit, is a great way to spend a single day riding or as part of a larger multi-day tour. If you’re on a longer bike trip from Tokyo (東京) to Osaka for example, you will probably have considered this route anyway as it’s only a short ferry ride from Irago (伊良湖岬) in Aichi prefecture (愛知県) across the Ise Bay (伊勢湾) and doing so avoids most of the built up areas around Nagoya. Ise Grand Shrine (伊勢神宮), one of the most important shrines in Japan, is also nearby and well worth a visit.

The route below was actually ridden a couple of years ago but I have chosen to post it now due to a niggling back injury meaning I have not done any bike packing since Hafudake (破風岳) in October (keep those muscles stretched people!). Better to post an older route now than disappear into the blogging void.

I rode it by starting in the west and heading east but it can just as easily be ridden from east to west. There’s a section of old disused road starting at 58kms that is not really suitable for road bikes but this can be avoided by staying on R260. If I rode it again that’s what I’d probably do. Bring lights as there are plenty of small tunnels that are unavoidable.

Distance – 102kms

Elevation – 2280m according to Ride With GPS but that doesn’t take into account the tunnels. In reality it was a lot less.

Approximate train fare – ¥4920 from Nagoya to Kii Nagashima / ¥4200 Osaka – Kii Nagashima / ¥3180 Nagoya – Shima-Shimmei

Camping – N/A as I rode it on a day trip


If you would like a copy of the route file either download it via RWGPS or leave a comment below.

Kii Nagashima to Shima

Matsumoto – Hafudake – Kusatsu

One of the benefits of living in central Japan is that most places are within a reasonable distance in relation to cycling and bike packing, and with the JR Chuo line (中央線) running from Tokyo (東京) to Nagoya (名古屋) around the Minami Alps it doesn’t take much time and effort to get out into the mountains.

For this trip I wanted to head to the southern tip of the Kita Alps (北アルプス) so planned a route that started in Matsumoto (松本) – an easy train ride from Nagoya on the Chuo line – northeast towards Mt. Shirane (白根山), a currently active volcano, before heading down to Kusatsu Onsen (草津温泉) famous for its outdoor hot spring and onsen resorts.

As I was fairly new to the area I contacted Julien at Fairmean who regularly camps out in the region, and Adam from Ride Japan to get some advice on places to sleep, as well as to confirm whether some roads were open. Julien recommended sleeping at the top of Hafudake (破風岳), southwest of Mt. Shirane, while Adam confirmed that the Manza Highway (万座ハイウェイ) would probably be open. I planned on taking the R292 up and over Mt. Shirane, but if that was closed I could make a detour on the Manza Highway.

The ride from Matsumoto to Hafudake was fairly straightforward with only a couple of average climbs to conquer before the final more challenging ascent to Hafudake at 2000m which would be where I would sleep for the night. A cycle path runs along the Chikuma River (千曲川) in Nagano (長野) that you can follow to get the the base of the final climb. It’s easy to follow but you do have to detour at times and use the much busier R403.

At 2000m the temperature would be roughly 20C cooler than at sea level so, along with a sleeping bag and mattress, I packed two jackets, a winter cycling hat, gloves, and other cycling gear that are usually put aside for the colder months. In the evening it all got worn and I was glad I brought them along as the bivvy bag recently ordered from Locus Gear hadn’t yet been delivered and the temperature at the top was close to freezing.

I arrived at the summit after sunset after choosing to take a forest road (林道) in Takayamamura (高山村) that was closed off to normal traffic. Before leaving I’d checked the route and distance of the road and noticed on Google Street View that it was all gravel. I managed to ride about half of it on my bike but had to push the rest. In hindsight, an MTB or even fatbike would have been much better on parts of the trail and it definitely fell into the Type 2 category of adventure activities. Next time, however, I will use the other road a few kilometers northeast that is open to normal traffic.*

After setting up my mattress and sleeping bag it was time to settle down for the night behind a large rock to shelter from the wind. Fortunately it was a fairly calm night and sleep came easily. As it was almost a full moon that evening it meant the night sky was too bright to get a good glimpse at the stars so for future visits it would be a good idea to check the phase of the moon before planning a trip. I don’t have the ability to put into words how it feels to sleep alone at the top of a mountain under the stars – just get out there with the appropriate equipment and give it a try.

The view first thing in the morning was simply stunning with nothing but mountain ranges as far as I could see south. It still amazes me that in a fairly small country that has a population of 120 million with one of the highest population densities in the world, if you know where to go, you can be alone in the wilderness with nobody around for miles. While camping on top of Hafudake it’s hard to imagine that places like Tokyo, Osaka, and Nagoya exist.

After spending a good hour or so admiring the view and packing up it was time to head east towards Manza (万座)  across into Gunma prefecture (群馬県) to wait for the gate to open at 8 a.m. so that I could take the R292 over Mt. Shirane and down into Kusatsu. Mt. Shirane is active and as of writing there is an alert in place so it’s important to check beforehand to make sure that the road is open. No pedestrians are allowed (there are signs in English) and cars are not allowed to stop. Environmental agency personal are scattered along the road too keeping one eye on the volcano, and another on the car day-trippers.

The decent into Kusatsu from the summit reminded me of the upper slopes of Mt. Norikura (乗鞍) – open, winding, breathtaking views, and fast! Unlike Mt. Norikura though, the R292 is open to regular traffic so you need to descend with care. Motorbikes, as usual, can often be a nuisance.

The road will drop you off in the centre of Kusatsu which has ample coffee shops, convenience stores, restaurants and more to freshen up and relax after a solid weekend in the mountains.

Getting back to Nagoya is a more of a hassle from Kusatsu as I had to take a bus to Karuizawa (軽井沢) , the Hokuriku Shinkansen (北陸新幹線) to Nagano (長野), and then the JR Shinano on the Chuo line back home. Getting to Tokyo is much easier as there are more regular buses to Shinjuku (新宿).

*The route below does NOT include the gravel/forest road but instead goes up the normal road open to traffic.

Distance – 140kms (over two days)

Train fare – Between ¥3000 – ¥6000 depending on which train you take.

Elevation gain – 2000m

Campsite – rough camping at the top of Hafudake.


Want the files for any of our routes? Get in touch and we’ll be happy to send them.

Matsumoto – Hafudake – Kusatsu

Microadventures by Alastair Humphreys

I’ve been reading travel and adventure books for as long as I can remember but I don’t think I’ve read a travel/adventure book that makes adventure sound so easy and accessible as Microadventures.

I first came across Alastair Humpreys quite recently when I saw a post on Instagram in which he had begun an adventure by following in the footsteps of Laurie Lee and attempted to earn a living from playing the violin in Spain. It was suitably insane enough to get me hooked on his endeavours and learn more about his past adventures.

As the title suggests, the books is based on the now fairly familiar concept of a ‘microadventure’ which is described by the author as:

adventures that are close to home, cheap, simple, short, and yet very effective. A microadventure has the spirit (and therefore the benefits) of a big adventure. It’s just all condensed into a weekend away, or even a midweek escape from the office. Even people living in big cities are not very far away from small pockets of wilderness.

And that is exactly what the book is about – microadventures that can be done pretty much anywhere, anytime, with little or no money. Perfect, not only for UK in which the book is aimed, but at Japan too which shares similar lifestyles and population densities.

The concept of 5-to-9 runs throughout the book, in which you make the most of evening/early morning hours between work, has already got me considering short cycling trips into the local hills. In fact, to the author’s credit, I’m even beginning to question to the value of weekday road cycling just for the sake of racking up distance and hours. Sure, it keeps me fit and healthy, but wouldn’t it be even better to add a splash of adventure and just cycle without having to worry about getting home the same day? Much better to turn it into an adventure by picking somewhere new, packing the sleeping bag and bivvy and sleeping under the stars.

Until recently I’ve been struggling with the concept of cycling to campsites while hauling a tent up and down all those steep mountains just so I can pay for the privilege of sleeping next to complete strangers more attached to the latest camping gear and cans of Asahi beer than the surrounding environment. Why limit yourself to campsites or even hotels? I dreamt of that kind of freedom when I was travelling in my early twenties but even back then I mostly remained confined to Australian backpackers hostels and Indian guest houses. 

Of course wild camping is nothing new, even in Japan, but it’s always made me feel somewhat awkward. Microadventures, and in particular, Alastair’s admiration for the modest bivvy bag has changed all of that, and the book has made me realize – if somewhat overdue – that it is fine to not have any plans whatsoever, that it’s fine just to ride until dark, sleep, get up and repeat. Just don’t litter. It’s quite fitting that there are a number of chapters geared directly towards cyclists (any kind of cyclist).

The book concentrates on the UK but it can just as easily be adapted for Japan. In fact, with all these mountains and trains, I’d suggest it’s even more suited to Japan.

Buy it, read it, do it.

I bought the Kindle version and read it on my iPad. 

Microadventures by Alastair Humphreys

Ena – Kasugai (avoiding Route 19)

Route 19 which runs through the Kiso Valley (木曽谷) from Matsumoto (松本) straight down to Nagoya (名古屋) is a horrible road to ride your bicycle on. Unfortunately many cyclists are unaware of this and think that it’s the only way to get to Nagoya from the mountains. The Kiso Valley, which the Route 19 follows, is extremely narrow with not much room for anything other than Route 19 itself, the Kiso River (木曽川), the JR Chuo line (中央線), and a few houses and rice fields scattered along the river banks.

Fortunately there is another way. Starting in Ena (恵那) you can follow another river, the Toki River (土岐川) – which for some reason changes it’s name to the Shonai River (庄内川) as it reaches Aichi prefecture – all the way into Nagoya.

There are a lot less cars, the scenery is much nicer, and as a bonus it’s almost all downhill. This is a route that you take your time over and stop off in any number of small cities along the way to enjoy Goheimochi (五平餅), a famous sticky rice and miso paste delicacy from the region before rolling into Japan’s fourth largest city later in the day. You can also stop off at Eihoji (永保寺), a nice Buddhist temple and garden on the outskirts of Tajimi (多治見) and only a stones throw away from the route.

This route starts at Ena Station and ends where the Route 19 reaches the Nagoya city boundary in Kasugai (春日井).

Distance – 63kms

Elevation – Less than 400m


Want the files for any of our routes? Get in touch and we’ll be happy to send them.

Ena – Kasugai (avoiding Route 19)

Interview with Simon Wile

The Japanese Odyssey is Japan’s endurance bicycle race. Still in only its second year the event welcomes riders from all over the world to try and conquer the single-stage 2400km route, with mountain checkpoints throughout central Japan. Simon Wile was one of those riders.

During the three weeks that it took place I found myself glued to the computer following their progress throughout the country, and when I noticed Simon was heading straight through Kasugai on his way to Nagoya I decided to hop on my bike and meet him along the river. Despite the atrocious weather that he’d had to endure he looked to be in good spirits and had time to stop for ten minutes for a chat about his experience.

Now that the event has finished he was kind enough to agree to an interview about cycling in Japan, the bad weather, and the Japanese Odyssey.

*Unfortunately due to the bad weather some of Simon’s photos are stuck on his smartphone and currently unretrievable. As a result we’ve had to use screenshots for some of the photos in the gallery.

Interview with Simon Wile

What made you decide to come to Japan and spend almost three weeks cycling the Japanese Odyssey?

Great question and one a lot of people ask. I was looking for an event to test my ability as a cyclist and as a person. The transam and transcon races provided a lot of inspiration and the JO being closer to home a bit shorter in length (distance) seemed like a reasonable first crack at a 2 week event, I liked the idea of the seeing the countryside, different culture and what I thought would be warm weather.

What were your expectations of cycling in Japan and how did they compare to reality?

Typhoon aside, I expected tough climbs, beautiful countryside and friendly people and I got all of that in spades. Japan is an incredibly beautiful and easy place is cycle.

Do you like bikepacking or was this your first time?

I’ve only done an overnighter and some longer audax style brevets. I like bikepacking and will definitely be doing more this summer.

How would you describe the differences between cycling in the big cities to cycling in the countryside here?

Cycling in Japan is super easy compared to Australia, everyone gives you patience and space and you never really feel threatened. Riding in the cities on the footpath was novel as we can’t do that at home and I was finding myself being dropped by super quick commuters who just knew the game and the area a lot better than I. The countryside is fantastic, even on the major roads you can cycle. The mountains are incredible, the surfaces are mostly great and you’re never far from a vending machine or conbini for refreshment. The are so many traffic lights though which burn your patience at times.

What did you pack in your bags to take with you?

I have a kitgrid pic on insta of this but I’ll send you the full pic. I won’t list everything but:

1x kit/socks/cycling shoeshelmetcap

1x bivvy and a silk liner

a spare pretty much everything, except spokes and brake pads, bring them!

batteries and cables to recharge things on the go

Garmin 810 and Wahoo ELEMNT bike computers

Not enough waterproof bags.

As it was the typhoon season the weather was quite bad. Were you expecting this and how did you deal with it?

I threw in a pair of Velotoze and a neck buff last minute as I anticipated some rain, otherwise just a Rapha rain jacket as a shell layer. If I had known in advance just how much rain we were getting I would have brought waterproof gloves and wet chain lube.

Did you have any problems?

I slipped in a patch of mud day 2 or 3 and scuffed my legs and bent my deraileur hanger slightly, more embarrassing than anything. Then I broke a spoke for the first time in my life descending Mt. Ontake in the midst of the typhoon. Luckily I taped it up and rolled into Nagoya the next day and had it straightened out. No one in Japan carries spokes for my wheels though! I didnt have any navigation or equipment issues thankfully. On day 5 or 6 I came down with gastro and it just got worse until I couldn’t eat or drink and eventually I pulled out of the Odyssey.

Where did you sleep and what did you eat?

I slept in nearby hotels, pensions, ryokans that I could find on I planned on bivvying not more than 2 or 3 times over the event. I ate just about everything I could find! Conbinis are the staple of travelling through Japan so you quickly find what you like and don’t like. Onigiri, ramen, noodles, pasta, chocolate bars, bananas… Couldn’t find my favourite riding snack, muesli bars, anywhere though.

How many kilometres did you ride per day and how would that differ if you weren’t here ‘racing’?

I averaged about 170km per day. It doesn’t sound like a lot but it’s pretty mountainous and you’re either going up or down, there’s very little flat. If I weren’t racing I would keep it to 100km a day and stop more, take in the scenery, and spend a lot of time in onsen! Aero bars got very little use on this ride.

What did you like the most about bike packing in Japan?

The scenery, far and away the views, when they weren’t fogged in, were outstanding. Just getting from checkpoint to checkpoint there were some incredible vistas and picturesque places. The people are so friendly, food is pretty cheap, the drivers are considerate and patient. Onsen are just the best place to stay after a long days riding.

What advice would you give to first-time cyclists planning a trip in Japan?

Bring a rain jacket, the weather changes quickly. Conbinis have everything you ever need on the road. The people are SO friendly and will help you if you ask. Onsen are amazing and you should stop in as many as possible. There are bike shops and “sports” bike shops, you want sports bike shops for anything more than a tube. Stay off highway 2.

Do you plan to return?

Japan and  I have unfinished business. I hope to return and complete an Odyssey ride for sure.

You can find Simon on Instagram here and Strava here.

Interview with Simon Wile